Budellone

• Exposition: South
• Recommended season:Winter
• Rock type:Red and grey limestone on walls of different conformation
• Protection:Great protection on routes recently re-bolted

Budellone is a crag facing south, of great limestone, that is why it is not popular in the summertime.
It is divided in five different sectors, well described in this guide, with about 70 routes, mostly short, with grades between 3 and 7B and, moreover, with various climbing styles: technical, supported slabs, simple vertical progressions or physical and bouldering overhangs.
Many climbers have used this crag as their training place over the decades and now it shows lots of routes in Alpine classical style. They are indicated at their base with signs faded by the time and old or even no bolts.

It is recommended to climb on routes signed with a metal plate at the base, because it means that it has been totally bolted and the anchor is present.
Maintenance work is still ongoing.

• Sector - Cresta del drago: It hosts the most interesting routes for Sport Climbing. The exposure South-West makes it the perfect sector for winter ( and not so comfortable in the summertime). Routes are short and bouldery. It’s bolted for sport climbing and with stopped chains.
• Sector - MP: It hosts the most interesting routes for traditional climbing, that is why the routes are not bolted, except for some anchors. The exits of the routes are on the ridge, with a return on the path. Nuts, friends and cordelettes are required. Not to leave any equipment on the route is highly recommended.
• Sector - Il poeta: It’s a sector facing South, South- East, it is possible to climb here also in the summertime, because during summer it goes in shadow at about 15.30. It is an easy and enjoyable climb on a great limestone. In this sector some trad routes are visible, but they are not on the list and they haven’t been bolted for safety issues.
• Sector - Tiberio: Partially cleaned and bolted, it is a sector facing south-east, and it is possible to climb here in the warmest months, because in summer it goes in shadow at about 16.00. It is a physical climb on a vertical or slightly overhanging plaque.
• Sector- Gubì: Partially cleaned and bolted, it’s a climbing on supported plaque.

Reporter: Davide Neri

• Parking coordinates: N45°33.668’   E10°24.783’
• Approach time: 10 minutes

There are two options of parking and access.

From Brescia
At the roundabout of Paitone, take the road to Via Fornace and then at the right in Via Chioschetto. At the quarry, follow the cobbled road at the right and park on a comfortable widening at “Buco del Frate” ( GPS 45.561126, 10.413047). Walk along the path halfway, going east. At the fork, turn left and follow indications for the many sectors of the crag. In five minutes you reach the sector “Cresta del Drago”. For the other sectors follow the well visible path that runs along the path.

From Gavardo
Just before the cemetery of the Municipality of Prevalle, turn right, or, coming from Paitone, just after the same cemetery, turn left, in a little road between the center Volkswagen and another factory, the crag is well visible ( GPS 45.558325, 10.415230).
Once there, park the car and follow indications.
For the crag. In 5 minutes you reach the sector “Cresta del Drago”. For the other sectors, follow the path well-marked along the wall.