Description
- Exposition: West
- Recommended season:All year long: in Summer mornings or in Winter afternoons
- Rock type:Marble, cracks and sharp holds
- Protection:Excellent with fix
Little crag with short, overhanging, and athletic single-pitch routes.
Situated in an abandoned cave, it was bolted and cleaned up during the lockdown in 2020 by Marco Gobbini, who had already put up the trad climbing route “Basta Veleni” in the ‘90s.
Then Riccardo Faglio, Saverio Sodero and Ivan Maghella bolted other routes and made the crag more comfortable and sporty.
The approach is very short, just 30 meters, the environment is not great but with a very comfortable base of the routes.
A helmet is highly recommended!
Reporter: Andrea Argo
Approach
- Parking coordinates: N45°33.539’ E10°23.451’
From the center of Paitone, get to Marguzzo (follow indications). At the first hairpin, park on the left. Continue walking, crossing the bar just at the level of the hairpin. The crag is on the right.
Routes
| 1 | Alchimia | 6a | 12 m | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
|
Non spostarsi troppo a destra |
||||
| 2 | Sorella roccia | 6b+ | 12 m | |
| 3 | Rododendro | 6a+ | 13 m | |
| 4 | Fratelli tutti | 6b+ | 13 m | |
| 5 | Laudato sii | 6c | 13 m | |
| 6 | Madre terra | 7b | 16 m | |
| 7 | Jungle boy | 7b+ | 16 m | |
| 8 | Basta veleni | 7b+ | 16 m | |
| 9 | Poche cose servono | 7a | 16 m | |
