Description
- Exposition: South
- Recommended season:Winter
- Rock type:Limestone and crimps on vertical walls
- Protection:Resined bolts placed quite close to each other
Corna di Fenere presents itself as a big limestone wall split into three sectors right in front of lake Idro. The crag has been almost entirely equipped by the mountaineer Ugo Mariani, from Valsabbia, in the mid-90s.
Winter is the most recommended season to climb here, even though some sectors, exposed to the South-West, are still good to climb even in mid-seasons; It’s pretty common, under the Summer sunshine, to see some tourists from the close camp site climbing on that walls.
Grades include a 4th grade (obtained by placing some artificial holds) up to 7b+, but the average grade in this crag is commonly the 6th grade. Bolts are usually close but pay attention: routes are never trivial.
It’s almost always a vertical or slightly overhanging wall, and it never miss crimps to squeeze and some steps of confidence.
If you take the chance of visiting this crag remember to enjoy the sunset: it will be the icing on the cake of a great climbing day.
Reporter: Davide Franzoni
Approach
- Parking coordinates: N45°46.645’ E10°31.423’
- Approach time: 5 minutes
Reach Idro and go straight until the area of Vesta. Follow the main road until the wide beach with parking. Enter the path on the right side of the beach and go straight. The crag is on your right (5 minutes).
Settore A
Corna di Fenere sectors
| 1 | Senza nome | 6a+ | 15 m | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
|
Attacco a 50 metri dal settore principale continuando lungo il sentiero |
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| 2 | Senza nome | 6a+ | 15 m | |
|
Attacco a 50 metri dal settore principale continuando lungo il sentiero |
||||
| 3 | S. Paolo | 6b | 20 m | |
|
6b fino al secondo spit, poi 5c. Partenza in comune con "Rachele (17)". |
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| 4 | Rachele | 5c | 20 m | |
|
Partenza in comune con "S. Paolo (22)" |
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| 5 | Fiordaliso | 6a+ | 20 m | |
| 6 | Veritas | 6c | 25 m | |
| 7 | Bucaniere | 6b | 28 m | |
| 8 | Via col vento | 6b | 23 m | |
| 9 | Bufo bufo | 7a+ | 13 m | |
| 10 | Unnamed | NL | 10 m | |
| 11 | Unnamed | NL | 10 m | |
| 12 | Resy | 4 | 18 m | |
| 13 | Baby | 4+ | 16 m | |
| 14 | Nadia | 6a+ | 17 m | |
| 15 | Abuso di ouzo | 7a+ | 25 m | |
| 16 | Granima | 6c+ | 25 m | |
| 17 | Nani's wall | 6b+ | 25 m | |
| 18 | Heaven's gate | 6a+ | 22 m | |
| 19 | Belvedere | 5c | 22 m | |
| 20 | Via del Masso | 6a+ | 22 m | |
| 21 | Vittoria's wall | 7a | 30 m | |
| L1: | 7a | 20 m | ||
| L2: | 6b | 10 m | ||
| 22 | Nibbio bruno | 6b+ | 30 m | |
| L1: | 6b+ | 21 m | ||
| L2: | 6b | 9 m | ||
| 23 | Diana | 6a | 23 m | |
| 24 | 9 dicembre | 7b+ | 29 m | |
| L1: | 6b+ | 20 m | ||
| L2: | 7b+ | 9 m | ||
| 25 | Idra | 6a | 22 m | |
| 26 | Hale bopp | 6a+ | 23 m | |
| 27 | Batel ar | 5c | 23 m | |
| 28 | Airone | 6b+ | 29 m | |
| L1: | 6a+ | 20 m | ||
| L2: | 6b+ | 9 m | ||
| 29 | Wiepkje | 6a | 23 m | |
| 30 | Vegemite | 6b+ | 23 m | |
| 31 | Venus | 6a+ | 23 m | |
