Description
- Exposition: South
- Recommended season:Summer
- Rock type:Granite, little rounded holes and adherence passages on resting and vertical plate
- Protection:Bolts are not very close, especially on easy routes
The crag was bolted between the '80s and the middle of the '90s by the bolters Gianzeno Marca, Matteo Rivadossi, and Giuliano De Giacomi.
The crag comes as a stunning granite slab, located in a beautiful landscape as it's Piana del Gaver.
Grades go from 4th to 7th, but in our opinion, the best grade is 6b. Some routes of low grade could have a long distance between one bolt and the other; that's why they are not highly recommendable for beginners.
Given this, for granite lovers, fun is guaranteed.
Reporter: Davide Franzoni
Approach
- Parking coordinates: N45°55.990’ E10°27.429’
- Approach time: 25 minutes
Reach Locanda Gaver, situated in the homonymous location, Piana del Gaver.
Cross the restaurant Locanda Gaver and continue more or less 100 meters, then park the car just before the shelter Nikolajewka, without crossing the bridge.
Cross walking the bridge near a hut, and follow a little mule path that turns right. After a few dozens of meters, pass through the field, staying on the side of the mountain (the path is not clearly visible at the beginning). Pay attention to the sign "Palestra di Roccia" at the beginning of the uphill path.
After 10 minutes of walking along the path, you reach a group of fir trees, where it's visible a little arrow signaling to turn right, slightly downhill. Finally, after a couple of minutes, you get to the crag.
Routes
| 1 | Doppia riga | 6c | 85 m | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
|
Per L3 andare dritti sopra la sosta di L2. Per L4 traversare a sinistra dalla sosta di L2 fino a una cengia. |
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| L1: | 6c | 30 m | ||
| L2: | 6a | 25 m | ||
| L3: | 4c | 15 m | ||
| L4: | 4b | 15 m | ||
| 2 | Bear free | 6b+/6c | 15 m | |
| 3 | Crosta | 6b | 28 m | |
| 4 | 1v | 6a | 10 m | |
| 5 | Ulli giulli | 6a+ | 45 m | |
| L1: | 5c | 15 m | ||
| L2: | 6a+ | 30 m | ||
| 6 | Peppa pig | 5c | 25 m | |
|
Parte dalla prima sosta di Ulli giulli |
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| 7 | Moon wave | 7b | 37 m | |
|
Necessaria corda da 80m |
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| 8 | Lupin | 6a+ | 28 m | |
| 9 | Woda | 6a | 30 m | |
| 10 | Bestcia | 6a+ | 13 m | |
| 11 | Spit lorcio | 6a+ | 32 m | |
|
Parte dalla prima sosta di Bestcia |
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| 12 | Animala | 6a | 13 m | |
| 13 | Zanzara violenta | 6b+ | 20 m | |
| 14 | Tarantella | 6c | 20 m | |
| 15 | Draculo | 6c+ | 20 m | |
| 16 | Paolo 1 | 7b | 18 m | |
| 17 | Paolo 2 | 7c+ | 25 m | |
| 18 | Paolo 3 | 6c | 25 m | |
| 19 | TNT | 6a+ | 18 m | |
| 20 | Lacrime di cane | 6a | 22 m | |
| 21 | L'orecchia dell'orca | 6b | 22 m | |
| 22 | Sine nomine | 6a+ | 22 m | |
| 23 | Adamello, land of legends | 7a+ (6b/A1) | 65 m | |
| L1: | 7a+ (6b/A1) | 15 m | ||
| L2: | 5c | 30 m | ||
| L3: | 5a | 20 m | ||
| 24 | Niagara wall | 6a+/6b | 25 m | |
| 25 | Patapum | 6b | 25 m | |
| 26 | Visitors | 5c | 25 m | |
| 27 | Gaverina | 5a/5b | 35 m | |
|
Partenza in comune con Visitors, prima sosta su golfaro sulla cengia a destra |
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| L1: | 5a/5b | 10 m | ||
| L2: | 5a/5b | 25 m | ||
| 28 | Para un brufolo en menos | 6a+/6b | 30 m | |
|
Partenza sulla cengia, a destra della prima sosta di Gaverina |
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